A year or so ago I took my two adult sons with me to Italy. Given the busy schedules of two 20-somethings, I didn’t get to choose when they would visit – late August was my only option, the height of tourist season and a time I usually don’t recommend. But with proper planning, we still managed to have a fun-filled trip without dealing with crowds of tourists. Italy still has so many exceptional places well worth visiting, they just haven’t yet been discovered by the guide books or Frances Mayes.
View of Florence from our hotel balcony
We did visit Florence, but with a private local guide and scheduling visits late in the day, we avoided the crowds. We headed north, rented a BMW M4 and spent 4 days driving through the Dolomites and Alps. That time of year the typical towns and mountain passes that are recommended to most visitors are crowded with cars, packs of motorcycles and tour buses all slowly crawling up these narrow passes, headed to the same sights. When you get to the top, the parking areas are full. Not the way I want to experience the natural beauty of this region!
Dolomites
We were able to find areas in these majestic mountains that were off of the standard tourist radar. Sitting in traffic was not an option, we wanted roads where we could open it up a bit and enjoy putting our high performance car through its paces. And we found plenty here – challenging curves, precipitous drops, little traffic, even in August. We then visited the lovely city of Mantova, few tourists here. Tuscany is crowded and hot in August, but we stayed at an elegant wine resort in the Valpolicella region where we sampled some of Italy’s best wines in an enjoyably tranquil setting. On to Maranello, near Bologna, to spend an hour behind the wheel of a Ferrari (as you may have guessed by now, my sons enjoy fast cars.) Almost two years later, my eldest son commented that this was the best vacation he had ever had. Sharing this experience with them certainly makes it one of mine.
MantovaWine estate in Valpolicella
Every morning began with a great breakfast buffet. A favorite cake that brought back the fond memories of this vacation is a Pear and Chocolate Cake that made its way to our table on many mornings, from the Dolomites to Bologna. It is a treat that can go from accompanying a cup of coffee for breakfast to afternoon tea, to an after dinner sweet with a nice pear liqueur or grappa. This particular version comes from Al Di La Restaurant in Park Slope, Brooklyn.
Torta di Pere e Cioccolato – Bittersweet Chocolate and Pear Cake
1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 eggs, at room-temperature4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter 3/4 cup sugar 3 pears, peeled, in a small dice 3/4 cup bittersweet chocolate chunks
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-inch cake or springform pan and dust with flour, set aside.
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together, set aside.
Using a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the eggs on high speed until pale and very thick, at least five minutes in a heavy duty stand mixer; longer with a hand mixer.
While the eggs are whipping, brown the butter. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan and cook it until the butter browns and smells nutty (about 6 to 8 minutes). It helps to frequently scrape the solids off the bottom of the pan in the last couple minutes to ensure even browning. Remove from the flame but keep in a warm spot.
Add the sugar to the eggs and whip a few minutes more.
Just as the egg-sugar mixture is starting to lose volume, turn the mixture down to stir, and add the flour mixture and brown butter. Add one third of the flour mixture, then half of the butter, a third of the flour, the remaining butter, and the rest of flour. Whisk until just barely combined — no more than a minute from when the flour is first added — and then use a spatula to gently fold the batter until the ingredients are combined. It is very important not to over-whisk or fold the batter or it will lose volume.
Pour into prepared pan. Sprinkle the pear and chocolate chunks over the top, and bake until the cake is golden brown and springs back to the touch, about 40 to 50 minutes, or a tester comes out clean. Cool on a rack, then remove from pan and serve.
A highlight of many of our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine private tours in Italy are cooking classes, and of course making pasta is always a favorite activity. But my view of what makes a good cooking class for our clients (besides a glass of prosecco) is that they leave with recipes they can make back at home. I love getting emails from groups who have visited with us, who gather together months later to recreate their Italy feast back home.
Pasta is particularly challenging in this regard, many requiring special equipment like a pasta maker; or a high level of skill with a rolling pin to be successful. Stuffed pastas like ravioli are very labor intensive – make the dough, make a filling, roll out the dough, shape the pasta. So I like to find those pasta recipes that are the simplest for a novice like me to do at home – no special equipment, easy to form, rustic in nature. Orecchiette makes the cut.
Orecchiette (pronounced with the ‘cch’ sounding like “kk”) are a small disc shaped pasta from the region of Puglia, the heel of the boot. The name comes from the Italian word orecchia, meaning ‘ear’, and -etta, meaning ‘small’, as their shape resembles an ear, a small round dome with a center thinner than its edge. Like most pasta hailing from the south of Italy, orecchiette are made with durum wheat and water, not eggs. This video shows the famous grandmothers of Bari who make orecchiette each day and sell it to local restaurants. Note: I do not make it anywhere nearly as proficiently as these ladies. I tried to use a knife as they did, and kept cutting my orecchiette in half. This is educational only, so you can appreciate the masters at work!
I recommend a very good book on just this subject, Pasta By Hand: A Collection of Italy’s Regional Hand-Shaped Pasta by Jenn Louis. This recipe for orecchiette comes from here, and the dough mixed up wonderfully in my mixer just as she described. I did think her two step process for forming the orecchiette was a little too complicated, I just pushed and twisted with my thumb and left it at that – I am sure hers are much more uniform in appearance, but my abbreviated method was easy and quick enough that I would make them regularly. , rather than just a one time thing!
Serve these with a variety of different sauces, from a simple tomato sauce, a meat sauce, or, as typically served in Puglia, with a spicy green and sausage – Orecchiette con Salsiccia, Cavoli Rapa e Pignoli. Enjoy with a glass of Primitivo from Puglia (Primitivo is a one of Puglia’s favorite local grapes, you’ll know it here in the US as Zinfandel.)
Orecchiette
9 ounces/1 1/2 cups semolina flour, plus more for dusting 9 ounces/1 3/4 cups + 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons kosher salt 9 ounces/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, plus more as needed
In a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the semolina flour, all-purpose flour, and salt at medium speed. Add the water and stir with a wooden spoon or mix on medium speed until a cohesive but not sticky dough forms, 1 to 2 minutes. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and knead with your hands or on medium speed until the dough is smooth and soft without being sticky or dry, about 8 minutes more. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour.
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and dust with semolina. Cut off a chunk of dough about the width of 2 fingers and cover the rest with plastic wrap. On an unfloured work surface, use your hands to roll the chunk into a log about 3/4 inch in diameter. Cut the log into 1/4-inch pieces. Press down on each piece of dough with your thumb, pushing and twisting slightly to form an indented disk.
(This was all I did to shape my orecchiete. The original recipe added: Now place the disk on the tip of your thumb and gently pull down on the edges with your other fingers, molding the dough to form a cup shape. Too much work for me.)
Place the orecchiette on the prepared baking sheets and shape the remaining dough. Make sure that they don’t touch or they will stick together.
To store, refrigerate on the baking sheets, covered with plastic wrap, for up to two days, or freeze on the baking sheets and transfer to a ziplock bag. Use within 1 month. Do not thaw before cooking.
Bring a large pot filled with water to a boil over medium-high heat. Salt generously. Add the orecchiette and poach until they float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes. Simmer for 1 to 2 minutes more, until al dente. Remove immediately with a slotted spoon. Serve right away.
Our February meeting of our Newburyport Wine Club was built around “Wines that Tell a Story of Love.” Of course, you can’t do a theme like this without including wines from the Veneto. We enjoyed a Valpolicella Ripasso from Zeni, and another with Veneto connections, an Amarone inspired appassimento-style wine produced in by Veneto producer Allegrini in Argentina.
Built in 2004, Bodega Renacer is located in Lujan de Cuyo, in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. Patricio Reich owns the estate and the wine maker is Pablo Sanchez. In 2004, Reich hired wine consultant Alberto Antonini to work with his winemaker. Through Alberto, Patricio was introduced to Marilisa Allegrini of Allegrini Wines – one of the most respected wineries in the world, located in Veneto. After visiting Patricio’s property, she was so enamored with Mendoza and the potential it has that in 2006 she decided to produce an Amarone style wine called Enamore, the first appassimento-style wine produced in Argentina. It’s name which means “in love” in both Spanish and Italian – was originally chosen as an homage to first impressions.
After 10 years, the winemaking team found that their love for this rare wine, and each other, had not diminished over the years, but had only grown stronger. To commemorate the phenomenon that time changes everything, and that what’s truly good only gets better with time, Marilisa and Patricio elected to retitle the “one-love” of Enamore to the new offering of Milamore – which means a thousand loves.
Milamore offers supple aromas of ripe berries, raisin, and plums. Sensual notes of exotic spices, flint and chocolate are seamlessly layered with the fruit. Full bodied, rich and complex, with a long finish beautifully framed by fine-grained tannins.
Pomegranate Braised Short Ribs
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
4 pounds bone-in beef short ribs (8 to 12)
Salt and pepper
All-purpose flour
1 large yellow onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
10 sprigs thyme
3 cups pomegranate juice
1 cup dry red wine, such as Merlot
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, for serving
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Season the ribs with salt and pepper, dust with flour. Place the ribs on a sheet pan and roast in the oven until well-browned on the outside, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and reduce heat to 275 degrees.
Alternatively, instead of roasting in the oven to brown, you can sear in a heavy pan. If I am making only a few ribs, I sear. If I am making a larger batch, roasting in the oven requires less labor on my part. To sear, in a large heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat 2 tablespoons oil over high. In batches, brown ribs on all sides. Transfer to a plate, pour off oil, and wipe loose bits out of pot.
Once the ribs have been browned, in the same large heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid, heat over medium-high heat and add 3 tablespoons oil to pot. Add onion, garlic, and thyme. Cook, scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon, until onion is softened, 5 minutes. Whisk in pomegranate juice and wine and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Return ribs to pot, cover, and transfer to oven.
Bake until ribs are very tender and falling off the bone, about 3-4 hours. Allow to cool, then refrigerate overnight.
To finish the next day, remove from the refrigerator. The fat will have risen to the top and hardened into a solid layer; remove as much as possible and discard. Bring to a boil over medium-high, removing the meat as the sauce warms up. Cook until reduced to a sauce-like consistency, 10 – 20 minutes, depending upon the consistancy you prefer. Remove the thyme sprigs and garlic, you can use a strainer if you wish. Season with salt and pepper, and pour over ribs.
Serve with roasted pumpkin or squash. Top with pomegranate seeds and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses.
If you need to cook and serve the same day, you can. Once the meat is tender, with a slotted spoon carefully transfer ribs to a large platter. Strain liquid into a fat separator, let sit briefly, and return to pot, discarding fat (or, skim off fat with a spoon). Bring to a boil over medium-high and cook until reduced to a sauce-like consistency, 10 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, season with salt and pepper, and pour over ribs.
60% CORVINA – 30% RONDINELLA – 10% MOLINARA and 14.0% ABV The Zeni story starts with Bartolomeo Zeni in 1870; painter by passion, but carter by profession, Bartolomeo transported the goods of his region, like fish, olive oil and wine to the villages along the shores of Lake Garda. Bartolomeos’s business was then carried on by his son Gaetano, who began taking his first steps as wine broker. Thanks to Francesco, Gaetano’s eldest son, the Zeni family’s offspring inherited not only the family name, but also the strong passion for farming. Gaetano’s sons recognized a rapidly expanding market, especially abroad and thus completely changed the company’s focus – the production of quality wine. That philosophy, like the bond with the land, the passion for the vineyard, and for the love of the generations before is pursued with the same enthusiasm and dedication by 5th generation – Fausto, Elena and Federica Zeni.
A percentage of the grapes for this Valpolicella is hand harvested early, in small racks and left to dry before being vinified with the rest of the grapes picked later in the harvest. After fermentaion the un-pressed Amarone skins are added to the Valpolicella wine for a “re-passing” and remains in contact with the pumace of Amarone for 10 – 12 days, during this period a second fermentation takes place. This “Ripasso” method gives to Valpolicella wine a better structure and a lower acidity. This wine is highly aromatic with hints of black cherry and well-ripened fruit. The palate is well rounded, velvet soft and full-bodied with a long and lingering finish.
I paired this wine with a Risotto alla Valpolicella, following the recipe below that we made during a wonderful cooking class at Allegrini’s Villa della Torre wine resort (the same Allegrini mentioned in the next recipe). I’ve included both the original instructions, plus my version, as I find the original Italian fun to read, but a bit challenging to follow!
Fireplace at Villa della Torre
Risotto All’Amarone
Serves 4 persons
1/2 cup/100 g minced white onion
3 tablespoons/40 g butter
2 tablespoons/30 g of beef marrow (optional)
1 1/2 cups/320 g Vialone Nano, Arborio or Cannaroli rice
1/2 bottle Amarone or Valpolicella
4 cups beef broth, unsalted
Kosher salt
1/2 cup/60 g grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
Allegrini Instructions:
Finish the onion finely and fry it in a saucepan with 20 g of butter, pour the crushed marrow and cook for five minutes on a low flame. Add the rice, let it toast for a few minutes at medium flame and then pour the appropriately preheated Amarone. Continue cooking the risotto by slowly combining the hot soup ladle with the rice as it requires it.
Take the rice to the best cooking, never stop mixing with the wooden ladle, season with little salt. When the cooking is fine, add the remaining Amarone and, if needed, a large amount of broth. In the end, keep the risotto with the remaining butter and 60 g of grated cheese. Let it rest for a minute and serve in a basket of grain cake prepared in the following world; Pour in a preheated frying pan the remaining grated garnish, let it melt and help with a wooden pallet to lift the leaf that is formed. Pour it quickly on the dish and model it with the basket.
My Instructions:
Put the broth and wine in two separate saucepans and heat until warm.
Place half the butter in a large saute pan and heat over medium low heat. Add the marrow, if using, and the onion and cook until the onion is tender and translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add the rice, and cook for a few minutes to toast slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the preheated wine and simmer, when it has evaporated completely, begin to stir in the hot broth. Add a ladleful of the hot stock and simmer, stirring gently, until the stock is absorbed. Continue adding the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring and waiting until the stock is absorbed before the next addition of stock. Continue until the rice is al dente. The stock may not all be used.
When the risotto is done, stir in the grated cheese and butter and season with salt to taste. Serve immediately.
Walking through the countryside of the Langhe hills in the Barolo wine zone, pristine picturesque vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. Home to one of Italy’s most prestigious wine, almost every square inch is devoted to the cultivation of the Nebbiolo grape. But as I approach the Rivetto winery, I notice subtle changes to the landscape. No longer uniformed vineyards, I spot a field of grain here, a vegetable garden and compost area there, fruit and nut trees and herbs line the dirt roads that weave through the property. Why does a vineyard owner, whose livelihood rests on the sale of wine, devote precious real estate to crops that don’t make money? Is the owner simply not the best business person, or is there a reason behind his actions?
The latter, of course. The current owner, Enrico Rivetto, is a 4th generation winemaker who, in 2009 made the conscious decision to diversify. The cultivation of grapes in this area dates back thousands of years. But until about 150 years ago, grape vines here in Italy were not planted in ‘vineyards”, but grew alongside a multitude of crops, everything a farming family needed to survive. Woodlands covered much of these hills. Only when Barolo became one of the world’s most sought after wines were fields replanted, woodlands eliminated, creating what is today essentially a monoculture. As Enrico says, “Once one realizes the real effects this has on the environment, the need of a radical change towards an agriculture that is compatible and in sync with nature, land and men emerges.” The winery was officially certified organic in 2013, and in 2015 they adopted biodynamic practices. Just recently, in December of 2019 Rivetto became the first Barolo and Barbaresco winery to be officially certified biodynamic by Demeter International. Today the winery consists of 15 hectares of vineyards, 6 hectares of woodlands, 6 hectares of nut trees and 1 hectare dedicated to alternative crops – almost 50% of its land devoted to sustainability.
Enrico drives us down a dirt farm path pointing out the various crops he has introduced to his land, all against the spectacular backdrop – the lovely town of Serralunga d’Alba. There is a greenhouse housing vegetables, followed by an area filled with rosebushes. Sage and rosemary line the sides of the road, and I learn that the oils of these herbs are natural fungicides. Enrico hops out of the car from time to time to check on a few recently planted peach trees. He points out a field of oats in the distance, and we pass a quite large hay field that could have held more than a few grape vines, instead home today to a few large bales of hay. We make one final stop to visit an old root cellar, where Enrico’s great grandfather hid food from the Germans during the wars. Then off to tour the modern wine production facility.
Enrico shows me through the cellar, sharing his minimal intervention philosophy. His preference for natural yeasts, spontaneous fermentation. We stop to note the one item that stands out from the multitude of cellars I’ve toured – a line of terracotta amphora. An experiment, Enrico tells me. The ancient Greeks and Romans produced and stored their wines in amphora, and terracotta still possesses qualities beneficial to the wine-making process. Terracotta does not impart any flavor, allowing wines to display all of the delicate fruit aromatics and flavors of the grape. Unlike oak, terracotta is inorganic, and does not harbor micro-organisms that can spoil, thus reducing the levels of sulfur needed to safeguard the wine. And terracotta ‘breathes’, allowing oxygen to play a role in the wine making process, developing mouthfeel and amplifying aromatics and flavors. Enrico has swaddled each in a blanket of plastic wrap, as the oxidation through the terracotta was proving a bit too much for his liking. The challenge of low-tech wine production.
Finally, off to the tasting room. Enrico leaves me in the capable hands of Biljana, and we sample many of Rivetto’s wonderful wines.
We start with a first for me – a sparkling Nebbiolo. Biljana describes the 3 pass harvest process for Nebbiolo, depicted by the logo on the label. The first pass takes the bottom third of a grape cluster; these grapes, still with a nice level of acidity, are used for the sparkling Nebbiolo. The second pass claims the middle third, used for the dry Nebbiolo wines sold under the Langhe designation. The top third, most exposed to the sun and harvested last, is destined for Barolo. The sparkling Nebbiolo, produced using the classic champagne method, is named Kaskal, which in the ancient Sumeric language it means “The way to the king”. 100% Nebbiolo, extra brut, with 45 months on the lees. Rich yellow in color, with persistent fine bubbles. Aromas of fresh baked bread, honey and figs. Well balanced palate, crisp acidity and great mouthfeel.
To follow, another wine I had not experienced before – made from an indigenous white grape called Nascetta. This is a semi-aromatic grape native to Langhe with excellent ageing potential. Historical texts liken it to the great wines of Rhine. Yellowish gold in color, aromas of tropical fruit. The palate is fresh and mineral with a crisp acidity. Pair shrimp with citrus, scallops with vegetables, oysters, spring risotto.
Next, the 2016 Zio Nando Barbera. Almost one third of the grapes used in “Uncle” Nando Barbara were planted in 1944. As often used here in Piedmont, these vines are green harvested in late summer, eliminating 4 bunches out of every 8 to focus the vines energy on fewer, higher quality bunches. 100% Barbera, aged 18 months in large oak barrel, an additional 1 year in the bottle, with a powerful aroma of dark berries and cherry. Intensely colored, well-structured and smooth for the perfect every day wine. Enjoy with salami and cheese, parmigiana, vitello tonnato.
A second Barbera d’Alba follows, the 2015 Loirano Soprano. The Loirano Soprano wine is made from grapes grown in the upper part of Zio Nando vineyard situated at the top of Lirano hill. These conditions guarantee a wine with a potency and refinement that is unique in Langa. In addition, aggressive green harvesting (8 bunches to 3) insures optimal tannic and aromatic development. This wine is produced only in the best vintages for Barbera grapes – Barbera loves heat. 100% Barbara, aged 24 months in oak, 1 year in the bottle. A bright and an intense red, with pleasant floral notes of dark fruit and violets. Refined palate with firm tannins. Pair with salami, robiola, spicy food, pasta with meat sauce.
On to Nebbiolo. The first is their Langhe DOC Nebbiolo. Rivetto stopped producing wines from the indigenous Dolcetto grape, but needed a wine to replace its position as an every day table wine to enjoy daily with lighter foods and pastas. Made from the middle third of the harvest, An extremely pleasing and drinkable wine. Lighter red in color, with aromas of cherry and violets. Good body, smooth tannins. Enjoy with vitello tonnato, tajarin and ravioli, white meats.
Barbaresco. Rivetto is an historical winery, so they can produce Barbaresco at their production facility in Barolo as long as the grapes are grown in Barbaresco, of course. After a long search, they found a supplier partner that follows their preferred organic approach. 100% Nebbiolo, aged for 2 years in oak, 70% in Slovenian, 30% in French, followed by 1 year in the bottle. Ruby red in color with flecks of orange. Clear delicate aromas of fruit with floral notes. Good structure and finesse, pronounced tannins typical of the Marcarini area near Treiso. Enjoy with ossobuco, rabbit, aged cheese, gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese.
On to Barolo. We start with the 2014 Briccolina. Briccolina is the pioneer vineyard for Rivetto’s biodynamic approach, introduced here in 2015. This is a single vineyard wine, maceration of at least 50 days with a single punch down in that time. It has aged for 36 months in oak followed by 18 months in the bottle. It is expected to be best around 2025. Bright ruby red with orange rhues, a delicate bouquet of florals and spice. The palate is dry and refined, well-balanced with elegant tannins that will age well. Best with bollito misto, rabbit, braised meat.
Next their 2013 Leon Riserva Barolo. 100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Serralunga. After 5 years of aging, Barolo may use the title of “Reserve”. After 45 months in large barrels, the wines from each barrel are tasted and only those showing the greatest potential for ageing are used for the Leon Riserva. Aromas of red berries, rose and licorice, with flavors of cherry and raspberries. Smooth, well-balanced, with elegant tannins. Ageing will continue to smooth out the tannins and develop the bouquet. At its best after 15-20 years. Pair with red meats, lamb, game, aged cheese, everything with truffle.
Biljana then finishes the tasting with a small taste of the 2001 Leon Riserva. This side by side tasting demonstrates how beautifully these Barolos develop over time. The bouquet is more intense, more complex with notes of licorice and violent. On the palate, more interesting flavors emerge, leather, sour cherries, minerality. The tannins are refined and oh so smooth. A perfect ending.
In January, our Newburyport Wine Club welcomed Silvestro Silvestori from the Awaiting Table Cooking School in Lecce as a guest chef and Sommelier. Lecce is in the southern region of Puglia, the heel of the boot. I had traveled down to Puglia in September to explore, and was eager to learn more about the regional foods and wines. I had missed the opportunity to cook with Silvestro then, but he was visiting the US for the holidays and he graciously agreed to visit our Wine Club during his visit. My colleague Gary Sullivan hunted down some fantastic wines from Puglia – not many are imported here yet, so this was a challenge, and Silvestro suggested regional dishes to pair with each. So after missing out in Puglia, my chance to cook with Silvestro came to pass in my own kitchen! Thanks to Karen Shernan of Newburyport Port Plums for connecting us with Silvestro and supplying lots of great olive oil for our evening!
Puglia is one of the few flat areas in Italy, with huge expanses of farmland. It is a region of farmers, producing 40% of Italy’s olive oil. It also a huge producer of durum wheat, which is used in the area’s famous pasta, orecchiette, and breads. As with most regions in the south of Italy, this has been a poorer area, home to cucina povera, the cuisine of the poor. Meat traditionally was reserved for special occasions, with home grown or foraged vegetables taking center stage, and fish and seafood making frequent appearances due to Puglia’s extensive coastline.
Silvestro suggested two vegetable dishes that we paired with two red wines. Typically white wines are favored with vegetables, but the warm climate of Puglia favors reds. Both of these dishes have enough strong flavors going on to stand up to a red wine; the first uses hearty, spicy wild greens with a dried bean puree, the second an assortment of well-roasted root vegetables. Both require a liberal application of high-quality extra virgin olive oil to finish the dish – preferably Puglian, of course!
Gary selected the 2015 Leone de Castris Rosso Riserva, Salice Salentino to serve with the Fave e Cicoria, Pureed Fava Beans with Dandelion Greens. This is a blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera di Lecce, both indigenous red grapes. Salice Salentino is one of Puglia’s most successful denominations and one of the first to gain recognition abroad. Intense ruby-red in color, with concentrated aromas of black cherries and baked red fruits complemented with undertones of plum, spice, vanilla and anise. On the palate, velvety tannins and a full body frame the long, delectable finish of stewed strawberries and vanilla beans.
Fava e Cicoria
We made an authentic version of this dish with Silvestro. I purchased dried favas, we first soaked them, then cooked them, then peeled each individual bean; all in all, a very laborious process. We ended up picking through the shelled beans, disposing of many that were too brown to use. We all agreed that using good quality canned white beans would make a better, more attractive puree, and be MUCH easier. So that’s what I used for this recipe.
Serves 4
1 – 28 ounce can white beans, such as Cannellini or Lima, rinsed well 2 cloves garlic, minced Juice of 1 lemon Extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1 large bunch dandelion greens, washed
Place beans, garlic and lemon juice in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to puree. Add olive oil and pulse until the puree is the consistency your prefer, typically like a hummus. Season to taste with salt.
Bring a large pot of water to s rolling boil over high heat. Add salt until water tastes like sea water. Blanch the greens in the boiling water until the stems are tender to the bite, about 7 minutes. Drain greens.
Place a large spoonful of the bean puree on a plate or in a serving bowl. Surround with a circle of the greens, which Silvestro called “green spaghetti”. Top generously with olive oil and serve.
Pugliese Dark Roasted Root Vegetables
Silvestro described this dish to me a simple roasted root vegetables, cooked until they are “almost burnt”. This resulted in a strongly flavored dish that holds up well against the 2016 Rivera “Violante” Nero di Troia from Castel del Monte. The Rivera estate is located near the town of Andria in the heart of the Castel del Monte DOC. In terms of vineyard area (approx. 1,800 hectares) Nero di Troia, also called Uva di Troia, is the third most important of Puglia’s native black grape vines after Negroamaro and Primitivo. A luminous purple-red with a rich bouquet of wild red berry fruit and sweet violet florals. On the palate, Violante is full-bodied, with a fine balance between fruit and structure.
A mix of your favorite root vegetables – carrots, parsnips, turnip, celery root – washed/peeled
Extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
Minced parsley
Preheat oven to 400°F.
Cut root vegetables into larger pieces – carrots in half, or quarter if really large, turnips in 1 inch pieces. If you wish to serve smaller pieces, I suggest roasting first, then cutting into smaller pieces as if they are too small, the dark roasting will result in burnt ends and dried out veggies.
Place vegetables spaced out on a sheet pan, and brush with just a little olive oil. Silvestro instructed me that you use only a little olive oil before cooking, and a LOT after, preserving the flavor. Season with salt and pepper.
Roast in the oven until very darkly brown, almost burnt, removing and flipping the vegetables once. Keep an eye on them during the roasting process, as some will cook faster than others.
Remove when dark, and serve either warm or at room temperature, drizzled liberally with olive oil and garnished with minced parsley.
