Polenta alla Griglia con Soprèssa Vicentino

grilled polenta sopressa bike tours in italyProbably the most popular cured meat we enjoy on our bike tours and ski holidays in the Veneto is the ubiquitous Soprèssa Vicentina. Somewhat similar to the soppressa found elsewhere in Italy, in the Veneto, where the local dialect hates double letters, it is soprèssa, and has gained EU PDO (Protected Designation of Origin, in Italian DOP) status to ensure the final quality and origin of these traditional salumi.

polenta sopressa grilled cycling tours italyThe Soprèssa Vicentino dates back to the thirteenth century, when the Scaligari family ruled Verona. The choicest parts of the pig – shoulder, loin, pancetta, and throat fat are minced and mixed with spices and sometimes a generous amount of chopped garlic and then enclosed in cow intestines and hung for drying. The specifics of the Soprèssa Vicentino DOP production guidelines are numerous, and include the allowed breeds, their diet, production techniques and aging. All steps must take place in the Veneto region.

grilled radicchio ski holidays italySoprèssa Vicenta is mainly produced in 1.5 to 4 kg. pieces, even as large as 7-8 kg. It is aged for 60 – 120 days, today in special rooms that ensure the ideal temperature, humidity, and ventilation. The large size means that top-quality soprèssa is still good at the start of the next production cycle. The large diameter produces a double fermentation which results in its unique flavor; delicate, slightly sweet, and peppery or garlicky. When cut, the meat is compact yet tender, with a medium-coarse grain; pinkish-red in color, a spicy aroma with the fragrance of herbs.

grilled radicchio ski tours italyWe see soprèssa used in so many dishes in these regions: as the centerpiece of an antipasti platter of cured meats and cheeses, in fritattas, pasta sauces, and soups; wrapped around lean cuts of meats before roasting. The time-honored method of testing the seasoning of your soprèssa is to use a bit of the minced and spiced meat to flavor a risotto prior to enclosing the remainder in the intestines. Soprèssa is often paired with polenta, and served with mushrooms or sautéed wild chicory or dandelion greens.

grilled polenta ski holidays italyWe make polenta often in my cooking classes, a very simple peasant dish. Here are 5 tips to making perfect polenta from a previous post. I am often asked what to do with any leftovers, and here’s a very easy use for them – allow the leftover polenta to cool and harden, cut into squares and brushed with olive oil, then grill. Grill some soprèssa slices, and serve the warm grilled polenta and soprèssa with a salad of wild chicory, dandelion greens, or radicchio and arugula.

Polenta alla Griglia con Soprèssa Vicentino

4 cups cooked polenta (my 5 tips for Best Polenta are here)
Extra virgin olive oil
1 head radicchio, cut into quarters
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
8 thick slices of Soprèssa Vicentino, or other great salumi
Mixed bitter greens, wild chicory, dandelion, or arugula
Place warm polenta in a square or rectangular pan or plastic container. Allow to cool and harden. Turn out onto a cutting board and cut into 8 pieces. Brush both sides with olive oil.

Brush radicchio quarters with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.

Turn on grill. Place polenta squares on grill, and cook until heated through and the outside displays nice grill marks on both sides. Grill radicchio until softened and just beginning to brown. Just as the polenta is finishing up, place the slices of soprèssa on the grill to heat. Remove polenta, radicchio and soprèssa from grill.

Place the greens in a medium bowl. Cut the radicchio into coarse pieces and add to the bowl with the greens. Season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with olive oil. Divide the greens and radicchio between 4 plates, top each with two pieces of polenta and two pieces of soprèssa. Serve.

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Risotto al Tarassaco – Risotto with Dandelion Greens

risotto al tarassaco ski holidays italyWith the arrival of spring, and disappearance of snow, mountain meadows in the Altopiano d’Asiago to Trentino abound with many varieties of herbs and wildflowers. These regions in northern Italy that we visit all year round, with our summer bike tours and winter ski holidays, have a long tradition of using local plants in cooking and digestifs. Over the centuries, the residents of these regions have developed an expertise in the many possible uses of these plants. Once passed down from generation to generation, this tradition is in danger of disappearing.

dolomites view banner cycling tours italyThere are a few bright spots, however. Many Italian chefs in the rifugios we enjoy on our Italy tours are now rediscovering the plants growing in their own back yard, and putting them to use in their modern kitchens. Everyone seems to have their own homemade flavored grappa, with their favorite combination of plants. One plant easily found both in Italy and in my own backyard here in the US that makes it’s way into many dishes is the humble dandelion.

dandelions passo fedaia bike tours italyThe dandelion, Taraxacum, or tarassaco in Italian, is a flowering plant in the Asteraceae family. The entire plant is edible, from the yellow flower that is used to flavor frittatas and risottos, to the taproot which can be roasted and ground into a coffee. The leaves are most commonly used, with a slightly bitter flavor they are best cooked. Historically, dandelion was used as a herbal remedy to treat infections, bile and liver problems, and as a diuretic – the latter property leading to the folk name for the plant, in English “piss-a-bed” or French “pissenlit.”

dandelions green onions bike tours italyIn Conco, Italy, just north of the Asiago plateau, their native microclimate and soil produce dandelions that are particularly delicate, sweet and tender. They celebrate the appearance of tarassaco each spring with their “A tavolo con il Tarassaco di Conco” festival. Held in April and May, the restaurants of Conco offers menus that highlight their local dandelions, from appetizers to desserts, soups and risottos, stuffed roasts and salads. Miele di Tarassaco – the local honey – is the perfect accompaniment to a great aged Asiago cheese.

saute risotto rice bike tours italyHere is a recipe for a simple Risotto al Tarassaco, flavored with some fresh spring onions. I had no dandelions in my yard, but purchased these at my local farm stand. I would have garnished this dish with the yellow petals of the flower, had I had some. Next time! I am sure to make this again.

Risotto al Tarassaco

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
6 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 spring onion, white bulb chopped into 1/4” dice, green stems thinly sliced
1 cup risotto rice (Vialone Nano, Carnaroli, Arborio)
1/2 cup white wine
1 bunch dandelion greens, washed and coarsely chopped
1/2 cup grated aged Asiago cheese

Combine the oil and butter in a heavy, large skillet over medium-high heat.

Warm the stock in a saucepan, covered to keep it from evaporating.
Add the chopped white bulb of the onion and cook until soft and translucent, about 2-3 minutes. Stir in the rice to coat with the oil, and cook for 1 minute.

Add the white wine and stir, cooking until absorbed by rice. Begin to add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring after each addition and waiting until the broth is absorbed by the rice before adding the next 1/2 cup.

After about 10 minutes of cooking, when the grains of rice are beginning to soften, stir in the chopped dandelion leaves.

When the rice is tender, but still firm to the bite – al dente, turn off the heat. Add in a last 1/4 cup of broth and the grated cheese. You likely will not use all of the stock – you should cook just until done, not until the stock is gone! The amount of cooking time will depend greatly on the type of rice, the age, and relative humidity, so use your judgement. Season with salt and pepper, garnish with the sliced green onion stems and any dandelion petals, and serve immediately.

chopped dandelions green onions bike tours italy

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Bele Casel – Asolo Prosecco DOCG

guests at bele casel bike tours italy      “Dear Kathy,

It will be our pleasure to welcome all of you in our winery! we are a small winery so the tasting will be done in our house and everything will be just familiar…hope this will not be a problem for you!”

Absolutely not. This is precisely what I am looking for in our winery visits during our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine tours – the chance for our guests to meet face to face with a family producer, and see first hand the passion and knowledge that they pour into every bottle.

asolo viewOur day began with our bike ride from Bassano del Grappa, known for it’s famous digestif, grappa to our next destination, Castelfranco Veneto. We stopped first for a bite to eat in one of the loveliest little towns in Italy, Asolo. Known as “The City of a Hundred Horizons”, it’s hilltop location provides panoramic views in all directions. It is also the home to some wonderful sparkling prosecco wines, produced under the Asolo Prosecco DOCG quality denomination. The Asolo foothills are located northwest of Treviso, just due west of the better known Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco region. Prosecco wines from these Asolo hills can also earn the DOCG status if they meet the strict quality guidelines. We pass through many of these vineyards on our way south to meet our winery hosts as Bele Casel, a producer of Asolo Prosecco DOCG wines.

giuliana guest bele casel bike tours italyLuca, the winemaker, greets me as I arrive by car slightly ahead of our guests on their bikes. Luca’s wife, Giuliana, will be showing us around as she speaks better English, and we are fortunate also to have Luca’s father accompany us. Luca’s grandfather started with just a hectare of vines. Luca’s father studied wine making in school, and he and his wife devoted themselves to producing their own wines, spending many late hours in the fields and cellars after working their day jobs. Luca and his sister Paola are now full time in Bele Casel, growing the business, striving for higher and higher quality product. Their philosophy is purity – allowing their grapes to speak for themselves – no additives, small production, all organic; they are receiving their organic certification this year. The results are amazing, exceptional prosecco wines that are beginning to garner international attention. This is clearly an example of letting their unique terroir shape their wines, rather than the processing.

tanks bele casel bike tours italyGiuliana shows us their production facility; small, but large enough for their limited production. Large stainless steel tanks for fermentation, pumping systems, and many racks for bottle storage, and an elaborate mechanized system for bottling their sparkling wines. They produce two types of sparkling wines, their prosecco wines which are produced using the Charmat-Martinotti method. This method, in which the second fermentation occurs in a stainless steel tank, rather than in the bottle as for champagne, is often referred to as just the Charmat method, named after the Frenchman Eugene Charmat, who stole the idea from the original Italian inventor, Martinotti. Giuliana makes sure we know this.

abeling bele casel bike tours italyTheir obvious pride and joy is their Colfondo Vino Frizzante, or sparkling wine. The Colfondo prosecco follows a slightly different production process, one that is traditional for this area around Asolo, practiced by the vecchi – the “old folks. For a Colfondo, the second fermentation occurs in the bottle, without disgorgement. The wine is then aged 6-8 months “sur lie” or on the lees, the residual yeast that remains following the secondary fermentation. The resulting wine still contains the lees, which are not disgorged as in champagne. This prosecco is bone dry, with less than 1 g/l of residual sugar, and notes of crusty bread due to the yeast. A separate, old school bottling machine is needed for this, where one or two people can individually bottle the Colfondo wines, making it a rather laborious process.

machine bele casel bike tours italyWe go outside to view the crushing bin, located directly above the tanks. We are also shown a machine they use to control pests and fungus in their biodynamic vineyards; a machine that passes over the vines and acts essentially like a huge vacuum cleaner, using airflow and suction to remove pests.

Our next, and most enjoyable stop – we are taken into Luca and Giuliana’s home, where glasses and their array of Prosecco await us. As always, we begin with their driest wine, the Colfondo.

colfondo bele casel bike tours italyIf you wish to enjoy a clear glass of Colfondo, you allow it to sit for a while before serving, carefully opening and pouring to avoid agitating the yeast. You can decant, or expect the last glass will end up with a good dose of the yeast. Or, as Giuliana recommends, you can embrace the experience by tipping the bottle upside down before opening, to make sure the yeast is distributed and enjoyed by all! This is the wine they enjoy as a family. The others, all less dry, are produced because that is what their export markets, including the US, prefer.

We all found this wine amazing; all but one of us preferred the Colfondo above all the others. Straw yellow with fine, long lasting bubbles, it exhibited notes of fruit balanced with the flavors of yeasty bread, growing more complex as the wine opens up. Perfect any time of day, as an aperitif or to accompany a traditional antipasti platter of cured meats.

prosecco bele casel bike tours italyNext, their Asolo Prosecco DOCG Superiore Brut. A dry prosecco, but with residual sugars of 6.3 g/l, noticeably sweeter than the Colfondo. Produced using the Martinotti methods, it ages on it’s lees as well during the second fermentation. Elegant, with flavors of apple, a slight touch of yeast, and a nice acidity to balance. Pair with an antipasti, or fish.

We move on, trying then the Extra Dry, and then the Dry. Flavors of sweeter fruits, like bananas, begin to appear, along with floral notes. We enjoy them all, each with their own unique flavors, and best occasion to be enjoyed. The Extra Dry and Dry would go perfectly with a nice dessert pastry or celebration cake. We pick up a couple of bottles to enjoy during our daily post-ride tasting event. And we are looking forward to ordering these back in the US upon our return home!

tasting bele casel bike tours italyDuring our tasting, Luca’s father and Giuliana gave us a glimpse into their wine making philosophy, one that is driven by their respect for their terroir and their grapes, and producing wines that reflect the true nature of these. The beauty of the Veneto region in Italy is the vast number of microclimates you find within a very small area – imagine having climates that range from North Carolina to Maine, mountains and sea, all within a two hour drive. Producers such as Bele Casel will see experience many different microclimates within their small holdings, and understand how each can be used to their best advantage – what grapes to plant, when to harvest, how many grapes from each elevation to use. Then they sit back, and try to do as little as possible during the wine making process to allow the terroir to express itself to its fullest.

The results are truly marvelous, and well worth searching out. For the price, here in the US about $16 a bottle, you will be hard pressed to find a more enjoyable sparkler.

bottles bele casel bike tours italy

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Crema di Mascarpone con Rabarbaro e Fragole

stewed rhubarb and mascarpone private ski tours italy italiaoutdoorsWe see many mascarpone desserts on our cycling and ski tours in Italy. It is a crucial component of tiramisu, and I use it often in my cooking classes. However, I still am often asked “What is mascarpone?” Here’s the answer.

mascarpone cycling tours italy italiaoutdoorsMascarpone is a fresh Italian cheese made from cream, coagulated by adding some sort of acid, either citric, acetic, or tartaric. It is a soft, creamy, easily spreadable cheese. It originated in the region of Lombardia, in the central north of Italy, in the area between Lodi and Abbiategrasso, just southwest of Milan. There are several theories as to the origin of the name; some claim it comes from the regional dialect name for ricotta, others claim it comes from the Spanish phrase Mas que bueno (more than good), dating from the Spanish occupation.

It appears in both sweet and savory dishes. I use it to enrich my Pea and Radicchio Risotto, or to whip it together with heavy cream and limoncello to make a tasty topping for roasted pears. And, of course, it is a key ingredient in everyone’s favorite – Tiramisu.

mascarpone grappa berries bike tours italy italiaoutdoorsThe following recipe is adaptation of a recipe from the region just north of Lombardia, Italy’s smallest region, Val d’Aosta. We will visit this region next season on our gourmet ski tour to Cervinia. Here, mascarpone is flavored with honey and your favorite liquor – I chose grappa, but you could use rum, or limoncello, or whatever you like. It is then served with fresh fruit. Rhubarb and strawberries are in my farmer’s market now. The rhubarb is roasted in water and sugar, and then the liquid reduced and drizzled on top. I also tried it with fresh blueberries and strawberries, topped with chopped toasted hazelnuts.

stewed rhubarb private bike tours italy italiaoutdoorsCrema di Mascarpone

12 ounces mascarpone
1/4 cup honey
3 tablespoons grappa
1/4 or more heavy cream

Combine mascarpone, honey, grappa and 1/4 cup heavy cream in a small bowl. Add additional cream to reach the consistency you prefer. Serve with stewed rhubarb and fresh strawberries.

Stewed Rhubarb

3 stalks rhubarb, trimmed and cut on diagonal into 1/4 inch slices
1/2 cup sugar

Preheat oven to 325°. Place the rhubarb into a medium baking dish, and sprinkle the sugar over rhubarb. Add enough water to baking dish to just cover rhubarb (about 2 cups). Place in oven and cook, uncovered, until rhubarb is very soft, about 1 hour.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the rhubarb to a bowl and pour sweet rhubarb juices into a medium saucepan. Boil rhubarb juices over medium-high heat until thick and syrupy, 15–20 minutes. Drizzle reduced juice over crema, rhubarb and strawberries.

3. Serve rhubarb warm or at room temperature, with a spoonful of ricotta and a bit of sugar sprinkled on top.

berries mascarpone private bike tours italy italiaoutdoors

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Pizzoccheri – Buckwheat Pasta

pizzoccheria asparagus ski tours cervinia italiaoutdoorsVisitors exploring the northern heights of Italy’s Lombardy and Val d’ Aosta regions – as we will do next winter on our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine ski adventure in Cervinia with Carrabassett Valley Academy – will discover pizzoccheri, a type of short, flat ribbon pasta made with buckwheat and wheat flour. In these cool, alpine valleys, wheat is difficult to cultivate, but buckwheat flourishes. The Etruscans and Saracens introduced the buckwheat grain to Italy, hence it’s Italian name grano saraceno. It became a staple in the northern regions like Val d’ Aosta and Trentino-Alto Adige, appearing in recipes like buckwheat polenta, pizzoccheri, and gnocchi.

buckwheat flour ski tours cervinia italiaoutdoorsBuckwheat is not a wheat, but a grain, and so does not contain gluten. As buckwheat flour is so soft and lacks gluten, it makes a lousy pasta on its own. Gluten is a protein found in wheat that gives pasta and breads their structure, allowing us to roll our pasta into thin sheets that hold together and don’t rip. Pasta made from buckwheat flour alone will tear easily and fall apart, so including a portion of wheat flour will provide the gluten needed to allow for rolling and cutting. Kneading and resting also enhance the development of gluten, so don’t cheat on these steps. After you get the hang of making pasta, this is a great no-fuss recipe, easily done with just a rolling pin and a knife. Perfect for my upcoming class on pasta making.

pizzoccheria ski tours cervinia italiaoutdoorsPizzoccheri is a recipe from Valtellina, a valley in Lombardy region of Northern Italy. The name refers both to the buckwheat noodles, as well as the traditional recipe with combines the noodles with savory cabbage, potatoes, and the local Casera cheese. A great winter dish, perfect on a ski holiday, but in May I’m looking for something welcoming the flavors of spring. Asparagus and mushrooms fit the bill, and complement the nutty buckwheat pasta. Pair with a great Chambave Muscat white, or a red Torrette from Val d’ Aosta.

Pizzoccheri – Buckwheat Pasta

1 cup buckwheat flour
1 1/4 cup all purpose or bread flour plus more for dusting
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water

In a large bowl, or on the counter, mix together the buckwheat flour, wheat flour and salt. Mound the flour mixture and form a well in the center. Add the warm water to the well. Using your hands or a fork, slowly incorporate flour from the inside rim of the well. Continue until the liquid is absorbed – about half the flour will be incorporated. Then knead until the dough forms a complete mass. If using a bowl, transfer the dough to a clean work surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes to form a smooth dough. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and allow to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes (optional).

buckwheat flour pasta ski tours cervinia italiaoutdoorsUnwrap dough and place in center of a large, clean, preferably wooden work surface lightly dusted with flour. Divide dough into 4 pieces, select one piece to roll, covering the remaining pieces with plastic wrap to avoid drying out. Using a long, straight wooden rolling pin, flatten the dough in the center, then begin rolling out dough using a gentle but firm back-and-forth motion and flattening evenly. Turn dough 90° and repeat. Working to maintain an even thickness, continue to gradually roll and turn pasta sheet until 1/8 inch thick.

rolling pasta ski tours cervinia italiaoutdoorsOnce the desired thickness, fold 2 opposite edges of the dough over 2 or 3 times in toward the center. Turn the dough 90° to cut crosswise, perpendicular to the folds. With a large chefs knife, cut the sheet into ribbons, 1/4 inch wide. Unroll strips and lightly dust with flour, then gently roll noodles into a nest, twisting once. Repeat with remaining pasta sheets.

Pizzoccheri con Asparagi e Funghi

1/2 pound wild mushrooms, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta)
1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved and sliced 1/8 inch thick
12 stalks asparagus, woody ends removed, peeled if thicker than your finger
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for sprinkling

Preheat the oven to 400°. On a nonstick baking sheet, toss the mushrooms with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 15 minutes.

In a medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the leek and asparagus and cook over moderate heat until just tender. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the mascarpone and cream, then stir in the butter. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

Add the roasted mushrooms and cooked pasta to the skillet and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and mound the pasta into shallow bowls. Sprinkle the pasta with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and serve immediately.

pizzoccheria close ski tours cervinia italiaoutdoors

 

Posted in Asparagus, Mascarpone, Mushrooms, Pasta, Travel, Uncategorized, Vegetarian | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment