Livio Felluga, the patriarch of this wine making family, and of Friulian wines in general, has made quite a name for himself in the very special region of Italy. His family, originally from the Isola d’Istria, experienced the Austrian-Hungarian empire, two World Wars, and the unification of this area with the young country of Italy. More than seventy years ago, Livio moved from Istria to Friuli, and dedicated himself to the cultivation of quality wines in this countryside, desolated in the aftermath of WWI and WWII.
Cormons, Friuli, Italy
In his native land of Istria, his family had cultivated Refosco and Malvasia grapes. Livio was the eldest son in the fourth generation of wine makers. In the 1950’s he opened his cellar at Brazzano, near Cormons, and began to purchase plots of land at Rosazzo. Here, he began to resurrect old vines, and plant new ones, and introduce new wine making methods to the area.
The estate today is run by his four children, and consists of 160 hectares of land in the hills of the Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli wine regions, of which 135 are vineyards.
Collio Vineyards, Friuli
Felluga wines are easily distinguishable by their map label, designed by Livio himself in the 1950s. It represents his love of the land, and the mapping of his own hills.
I have found two of his wines available here in the US. The first is their Pinot Grigio. I learned a new interesting fact about his varietal from the Felluga web site – it derives from a bud mutation of Pinot Noir. It enjoys cooler climates, and thrives best on the hillsides of this region. From the Colli Orientali del Friuli wine zone, this wine ferments in stainless tanks, and then is aged on the lees in stainless for six months. It is 100% Pinot Grigio.
Felluga Pinot Grigio
This wine is a pale, straw yellow, with a more intense and complex nose than most Pinot Grigios; stone fruits, citrus, pear and apple, with a bit of white pepper and spice. Elegant and full on the palate, very well balanced with a nice acidity. The flavors of peach and citrus are persistent, crisp and vibrant.
The second wine I’ve located here is a red, the Sosso, the one I tasted from 2003. This wine is named after the Sosso stream, which runs along the foot of the Rosazzo hills where these grapes are grown. It is made from grapes that are carefully selected from the oldest vines on these hills; a blend of the traditional Friulian varietal Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, Merlot, and a small percentage of Pignolo. Pignolo is yet another indigenous varietal, a red grape originally from these very hills in Rosazzo, but now grown throughout the Colli del Orientali del Friuli DOC. In Italian, the word pignolo means “finicky”, a reference to this grapes tendency to be difficult to grown. Note, this is not the same grape as Picolit, which is a white grape from Friuli used in its favorite dessert wine, also hard to grow, with very small (piccolo) yields.
Felluga Sosso 2003
Fermentation of these grapes occurs in stainless steels and oak casks. The wines are blended, and aged in barriques for 18 months. After bottling, the wine is aged an additional 12 months.
This was a wonderful wine, but does carry a price tag of $60, so one expects great things. Very dark in color, as typical of Refosco wines, a deep ruby red. An intense nose with many aromas; dark fruits, cherry, currant, licorice and spice. A velvety, elegant palate that was wonderfully harmonious; a nice blend of fruit flavors and spice, cocoa, very well balanced with appropriate acidity and tannins.
This would be a beautiful accompaniment for a very special meal; roasted red meats or game, or mature hard cheeses.
In March, 2012 I had a chance to visit the town of Cormons, Italy, located in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, just a stone’s throw from the Slovenian border. Cormons enviable location places it in both the Collio and Collio Orientali di Friuli wine zones. A spectacular region for our bike tours, with so many amazing wines to discover along the way.
Vineyards outside of Cormons
The Collio and the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOCs are considered to be the heart of the wine country of Fruili-Venezia Giulia. Many wine connoisseurs regard the whites from these two regions as perhaps the best in Italy. Collio lies in the province of Gorizia, bordering Slovenia and across the Judrio River from Colli Orientali. The two zones are often referred to as Collio Goriziano. The zone itself runs east/west, with the Adriatic to the south and the Giulian Alps to the north. This region has only been part of Italy since WWI, and the majority of the original wine zone lies across the border in Slovenia, producing wines under the “Brda” designation, which is “little hill”, or Collio in Slovene. The largest towns in the zone are Spessa, Capriva, Oslavia, San Floriano and Cormons, the last the home of the wine consortium and one of Italy’s greatest wine towns. The white varietals cultivated here include native grapes such as Tocai Friuliano (now know as Friuliano, as the EU has restricted any wine but the Hungarian Tokai from using that name), Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla as well as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc.
Edi Keber winery
I didn’t find a lot of wineries open for tasting this early in the season. During a drive through the surrounding hills I found the estates of many of the top producers whose wines I had been researching and tasting, including Branko, Edi and Renato Keber, and Oscar Sturm. The Branko winery I had specifically sought out, as I very much enjoyed their Pinot Grigio, voted one of the best whites in Italy. But most were shut up tight.
Keber Collio Bianco
Edi Keber was open, and I was able to taste the one white they produce, Collio Bianco 2010. Edi Keber comes from a long line of wine producers, originally from Vienna, bottled his first wine in 1957, and today cultivates 10 hectares of vineyards in Zegna, all featuring the extremely poor “ponka” soil characteristic of this region, a stony, friable marl that stresses the vines and results in very low yields. This poor growing environment gives the wines a remarkable body and weight, and unique minerality.
Keber vineyards
Edi is dedicated to producing wines that truly represent the terroir of the region, and therefore produces only a single white wine: the Collio Bianco, a blend of three varieties that have been grown in the area since before the two World Wars: Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, and Ribolla Gialla. Each provides it’s own unique character to the blend: structure and body from Friulano, aromatics from the Malvasia, and acidity from Ribolla Gialla. This blend was intensely flavorful, with lots of fruit and that nice minerality. A persistent, refreshing finish. This would be a wonderful accompaniment to vegetable dishes such as risottos and pastas, and seafood first courses.
My tasting was limited on my travels, but I knew I would have plenty of opportunity to taste at the Enoteca di Cormons. I had read about this wine bar in several publications, all recommending highly. I wasn’t disappointed!
Enoteca di Cormons
I arrived in early evening, around 6:30 or so, and there were only two other patrons, so I had plenty of attention from the proprietor. I let her recommend the best local wines, and began with the indigenous varietal most typical of the region, a Friulano from Magnas. Magnas winery of Andrea and Luciano Visintin started up in the early 1970‘s. This producer is located in yet another adjacent wine zone, the Isonzo del Friuli DOC, an area also known for high quality white wines. The Visintin family has been agriculturists for several generations, and emphasize quality over quantity in their production. Their Friulano is made from 100% friulano grapes, and is straw-yellow in color with hints of green. As is typical with Friulanos, it is highly aromatic with flavors of tropical fruit, citrus, and hints of almonds. Full-bodied, flavorful, and dry, with a nice acidity to round it out. A very pleasant wine, again a good match with cured meats and cheeses in the local antipasti, vegetable dishes, seafood and white meat.
Magnas Friulano
As I was enjoying a few sips of the Magnas Friulano, I noticed the other two gentleman patrons were tasting the Branko Pinot Grigio, a wine I had discovered in the US and found very nice. I commented on how much I like the Branko wine, and to my surprise found that I was talking with Igor Erzetic, the winemaker himself! After explaining my visit, as I learn and taste the wines of the area for future visits our our Italiaoutdoors Food and Wine bike tours, Igor and his friend took it upon themselves to give me a thorough introduction to many of the best wines the the area. What followed was almost a blur of wines, and the two gentlemen and the proprietor placed wine after wine in front of me! I steeled myself to make sure I took pictures, lots of notes, and spit! Here’s the lineup:
Igor Erzetic from Branko
We began with the Branko Chardonnay 2011. The Erzetic family has been cultivating grapes and producing wines in this area for many years. Branko Erzetic, restored the terraced vineyards with his then teenage son, Igor. Today, Igor runs the operation. The Branko Chardonnay is wonderful example of how flavorful and refreshing a chardonnay can be, especially when the oak is used to enhance the grapes, rather than overwhelm. We had a discussion about this tendency of some producers, especially in the US, to over-oak their chardonnays, something I have never been a big fan of. The Branko Chardonnay has a very pleasant bouquet with floral notes, pear, apple, and just a hint of oak. Crisp and refreshing, this is a wine to introduce to your friend who has sworn off this grape after one too many glasses of the oaky, buttery versions.
Branko winery
Next, the Branko 2011 Pinot Grigio. This is Branko’s flagship wine, and a regular contender at Gambero Rosso’s Three Glass finals. This wine has walked away with the prestigious ‘tre bicchieri’ award on numerous occasions, earning a reputation for a top notch example of this varietal. For those of you who view Pinot Grigio as a rather uninteresting wine, this will be an eye-opener. Full-flavored and intense, hints of ginger give this a spiciness that is balanced with velvety flavors of pear and almond, and just a hint of oak. It manages to be both complex and refreshing at the same time, and is now one of my favorite Pinot Grigio wines. A wonderful, flavorful wine that pairs well with an antipasti of speck and local cheeses, or poultry.
Igor Erzetic explained to me the layout of the local vineyards, with the Friulano vineyards located in the flatter valleys, and the Pinot Grigio grapes cultivated on terraced vineyards up in the hills. This region, with its many small hills, provides optimum growing environments for both varietals.
Toros Friulano
Next, another wonderful Pinot Grigio, this one a 2010 from Toros. Franco Toros makes some of the most magnificent examples of Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano and Pinot Bianco in Friuli. The Toros winery is a relatively small but picturesque 18 acre estate located just a couple of miles from the Slovenian border. Here was another intense and full-bodied Pinot Grigio, with flavors of flowers and fruit, and a balanced finish between a crisp acidity and an hint of sweetness. Franco Toros consistently produces wines that receive the Tre Bicchieri awards from Gambero Rosso.
Bastiani Il Pecol
Finally, on to some reds. The first was a producer unfamiliar to me, and difficult to find information on, as a web search uncovers very little information. The producer is Bastiani (not to be confused with Bastianich, another producer in the region, well-known US residents Joe and his mother, chef Lydia), a Vino Rosso named Il Pecol. There is a well-known Friuli winemaker, Stefano Bastiani, and I suspect this is probably from him. An IGT red produced here in Cormons, I have written a Barbera in my notes, but this a grape not cultivated typically in this region. Wish I knew more here. A lighter bodied red, with aromas of cherry and dark berries, and a nice acidity. A good match to the local cured meats, as well as pastas or risottos with sausages or meat sauces.
Polje Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso
My next taste was a more typical wine of this region, the indigenous varietal Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso – Refosco of the Red Stem. A medium-bodied red, with a light ruby color. Flavors of bell peppers and black fruits, with hints of smoke. This is a fairly acidic wine, a good foil for braised meats and game. This particular wine was from Polje, a farm that covers over 12 hectares of vineyards, some very old, located on the sunny and south-east facing slopes of hills in the Collio and Collio Orientale regions. The winery’s name comes from “polje”, the sinkholes that mark the land of the Collio in the area surrounding Cormons. Their elegant Refosco wine hails from their vineyards in the Colli Orientale del Friuli region.
Angoris vineyards, Cormons
The next two wines were from a fairly large producer which dominates the landscape as you enter Cormons, Angoris. In 1648, Emperor Ferdinand III of Hapsburg awarded the Locatelli family 300 fields in the area of Cormons known as Langoris, in reward fro Signore Locatelli’s valor during the 30 Years War. The Villa Locatelli was built on this property, and became a retreat for the Hapsburg elite. The wines produced on this estate made their way across the royal courts of Europe.
Today, Tenute di Angoris is managed by another Locatelli family, not related to the original owner, and the 17th century villa is beautifully restored and used for special events. The estate now consists of 620 hectares, 100 or so of which are dedicated to the cultivation of grapes in three wine zones: Collio, Collio Orientale del Friuli, and Isonzo.
Angoris Vos da Vigne Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso
I tasted the 2009 Vos da Vigne Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso from their vineyards in the Collio Orientale del Friuli DOC. There are 9 different types of Refosco grapes, with the Peduncolo Rosso considered the best. This wine is deep garnet in color, with purple tinges. An intensely aromatic wine, with earthy scents of dark fruits and berries, and hints of tobacco. Medium bodied, spicy, acidic, with a slightly tannic finish.
Angoris Schioppettino
Next, another fun varietal almost unheard of outside the region, Schioppettino. I tasted the Angoris Vos da Vigne 2009 Schioppettino. This native grape takes its name from the Italian word for “popping” (“scoppiettare”), due to either its’ characteristic spiciness, or the fact younger versions of this wine were produced, and often allowed to slightly ferment in the bottle, producing a bit of fizziness on the tongue. A paler, ruby red, with aromas of dark berries and grape. Medium bodied, with spicy, slightly peppery flavors and hints of licorice. This would be wonderful with lamb dishes, and roasted meats.
Proprietor at Enoteca
Next, a 2009 Cabernet Franc from Subida di Monte. The Antonutti family began cultivating grapes in the Collio Goriziano region in 1972. At that point, Luigi was one of the premier wine producers in Friuli, and decided to move into the agricultural side of the business. Today, his sons carry on the tradition, personally managing the vineyards and winery, and using traditional, natural vinification processes. The wine is ruby red, with scents of vegetables, green peppers, dark fruits and currants. Smooth and velvety, a strong wine which will refine with age. It is noticeably less acidic than the Refoscos. Enjoy with cured meats, poultry, and red meats.
Cormons vineyards in spring
Lastly, I sampled a red from the Magnas winery, their 2009 Merlot. This wine is produced from grapes grown in an area of Cormons referred to as “Boatina”. Intense ruby red color, with fragrances of dark fruits and berries, and vegetal notes. Dry, well-structured, with some persistent, slightly tannic finish. Pair it with roast meats, both red and white, as well as medium strength cheeses.
I purchased three bottles of wine, including a somewhat pricey Picolit, and the sampling was somehow ‘included’. Now, off to dinner at Osteria La Subida – and more wines…
When guests on our Italy bike tours are first introduced to the Italian foods of the Northeast regions, they are often surprised – pastas with red sauce, or, frankly, anything with a ‘red sauce’ are rare on the menus. The many pasta dishes are replaced with other starches; predominately polenta, and numerous varieties of wonderful risottos.
Quality control - enjoy when warm!
Brought to the Veneto in the 14th century by the Venetian explorer Marco Polo, rice was a highly productive crop that grew well in the climate of the area. It quickly replaced some of the more traditional grains that were grown in the area – wheat, barley and rye – which had been susceptible to agricultural blights. Over the next 500 years, rice became a mainstay of the local agricultural system, and was incorporated into the regional diet. In the 16th and 17th centuries, much of the land in the Grumolo area, located between Padua and Vicenza, and reclaimed via a system of canals by the nuns of the Abbacy of San Pietro in Vicenza, was converted to rice patties to support the demand for rice.
Vialone Nano Rice for risotto
Today, only about 200 hectares are still devoted to the production of rice in the Grumolo area. The area is best known for it’s unique regional strain of risotto rice, Vialone Nano. I can occasionally find it here in the US, at Micucci’s market in Portland, ME. But always use it in our cooking classes in Italy.
Getting your hands dirty - forming arancini.
I’ve taught classes on risottos many time, both here in the US and in Italy. It’s a basic technique that people can easily learn, and then adapt to make their own. One ‘treat’ that I include in these classes is a great use for their leftover risotto, a tasty deep-fried rice ball called ‘arancini’.
Breaded arancini
Arancini are fried rice balls covered with breadcrumbs. Reputed to have originated in Sicily in the 10th century, I don’t see them often in the regions we visit, but they are tasty and fun to make. The name arancini comes from the food’s color and shape, which resemble little oranges, ‘arancina’. A common street food in Sicily, they typically are stuffed with a meat ragu (meat tomato sauce) and mozzarella, but you can find many specialty types, stuffed with mushrooms (con funghi), eggplant (con melanzane), and peas. In Rome, you will find a similar food called suppli, most typically stuffed with cheese. The melted cheese makes ‘strings’ as you pull it apart, ‘suppli al telefono’, or telephone wires. In Naples, they are known as Palle di Riso.
Frying arancini
Here’s a recipe I’ve used in my classes to great success. These are stuffed with prosciutto or speck and mozzarella; I use a wonderful local prosciutto from the Colli Berici in the Veneto, or a speck from Alto Adige. I’d add peas this time of year, they can be included in the stuffing or mixed in with the rice itself. I’ve also used goat cheese and mushrooms; or whatever else you can come up with! Keep them warm in a low oven while you fry them all up, but they are best enjoyed warm.
Arancini con Mozzarella e Prosciutto
4 1/2 cups leftover risotto
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 cup freshly grated grana cheese
4 eggs, lightly beaten, two at a time
4 ounces mozzarella, cut into 1/4 inch cubes
4 ounces prosciutto, diced
bread crumbs or panko
flour
vegetable oil for frying
Place the risotto in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper, if needed. Add the butter, parsley, grana, two of the beaten eggs and stir gently to combine.
Lightly beat the remaining two eggs and season with salt and pepper. Place the flour in a shallow bowl, the beaten eggs in another, and the bread crumbs in a third bowl.
Combine the prosciutto and mozzarella.
Take a small handful (about 2 tablespoons) of rice and begin to shape into a small ball. Press into the ball with your finger to make a small hole. Fill the hole with some of the mozzarella and prosciutto, and then close the hole with a little additional risotto. Roll between your palms a bit to form a small ball, about the size of a small clementine. If they are too large, the stuffing inside will not get warm enough as it cooks. Place on a sheet pan, and form the remaining balls, attempting to keep them uniform in size.
Roll each arancino first in the flour, then dredge it in the beaten egg, and roll it well in the breadcrumbs. Place on a sheet pan.
Fill a heavy sauce pan with the vegetable oil to a depth of 3 inches. Heat the oil over medium heat to a temperature of 350°. Carefully place a couple of arancino in the pan and fry until a deep golden brown, turning occasionally. You want to make sure you cook them long enough so the cheese in the middle melts. Using a slotted spoon, remove from the oil and drain on a dish covered with a paper towel. Feel free to taste the first one, to check that the cheese has melted! Continue cooking until all are fried. Keep warm in a heated oven, and serve hot.
Recently, I visited Cormons, Italy. A small town tucked away in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, this town is the epicenter of wine production in this region. It’s location puts it at the border of both the Collio and Isonzo wine zones, so many producers here make wines for both DOCs. At the start of the Julian Alps, where the foothills give way to the plains that extend to the Adriatic, this region is prime terroir for the cultivation of many different varieties of grapes.
Friulano - Vosca
My first stop, however, was lunch. “Fresh” off the plane from the US, I needed something in my stomach before tasting some wines. The woman at the enoteca recommended a couple of restaurants, one which specialized in fish. Locanda dei Due Fratelli was just around the corner. I began my tastings there, with a Friulano from Vosca. Friulano is a very flavorful white wine, and the Vosca was true to form. A very floral nose, with lots of tropical fruit. A persistent palate, with lots of fruit, but with enough acidity to balance. I find Friulano’s have the flavors of sweet wines, without the sweetness. This almost had a bitter finish to it.
Menu on chalkboard
The lunch menu is brief, written on a chalkboard outside the door, and featuring only fish. I began with the cappesante, whole scallops broiled simply with parsley and extra virgin olive oil. The scallops here, as you find often outside of the US, are served whole in the shell with the roe. Beautiful, simple and delicious.
Cappesante - Broiled scallops
My next course was the same, fresh fish simply grilled and served with a fresh salad. One inch or so thick steaks of a fish called ombrina. Similar in style to mackerel or bluefish, but a bit milder. Grilled, and topped with a nice olive oil and chopped parsley.
Serve on simple greens, with great olive oil
No recipes are really needed to replicate this meal – broil or grill the freshest fish you can find, top with olive oil and chopped fresh herbs. Serve with a salad of wonderful simple greens, again – preferably local. Serve with a white wine.
Simple, healthy, delicious. A perfect start to my travels through Italy.
Located in Selgarda, in the heart of the Piave DOC, Ornella Molon Traverso is one of the producers in this little-known region that is beginning to receive international attention. Wines have been cultivated in this region for hundreds of years, but in the early 1980’s production here was confined to farmer’s growing grapes and producing wines for their own private consumption, or strictly the local market. In 1982, Ornella Molon took a risk, and invested in property here, with the objective of producing wines of the highest quality for a larger audience. She has been quite successful, with steady growth in all areas, and increasing recognition both home and abroad.
Vineyards in Piave DOC, Veneto Italy
Today, Ornella Molon consists of 40 hectares of vineyards along the Piave River valley, south east of Treviso. The production facility is located in the historic Villa Giustiniani, an old country villa dating back to the 17th century, the summer residence of Doge Giustinian of Venice. This structure houses the aging caves, bottling facilities and warehouse, along with a cantina with a tasting room to welcome visitors. The villa gardens are beautifully maintained, and available for private events and receptions.
Ornella Molon Cantina
I visited Ornella Molon during a trip through the Piave region. The cantina is quite large, and the staff on duty during my visit quite happy to introduce me to their wines. Ornella Molon produces two lines, a standard line, and a higher end ‘selezione’ line.
Most Ornella Molon wines are varietal in nature, wines produced from a single grape, and expressing the nature of each grape and the influence of this unique terroir in it’s purest form. They produce a few blends, a couple of bordeaux style reds, and a chardonnay blend.
Before continuing, I will assure my readers that there was a lot of spitting going on during this visit.
Chardonnay Frizzante
I began with a taste of the 2010 Ornella Molon Chardonnay Frizzante IGT. This is made exclusively from chardonnay grapes grown in the clayey soils of the Piave River basin, south east of Treviso. It is produced using the Charmat method (the same method used for Prosecco) in which the secondary fermentation that produces the ‘sparkle’ occurs under pressure in a stainless steel tank. The bubbles are typically smaller than those found in champagne. The Chardonnay Frizzante was pale yellow in color, with a yeasty, apple scent. It’s slight sparkle, crisp palate and well-balanced acidity make this a very nice aperitif wine to accompany antipasti, fish and shellfish.
Ornella Molon Tai
My next wine was their 2010 Tai Piave DOC wine, made from 100% Tai grapes, also know as Friulano. These grapes were until recently referred to as either Tocai Italico or Tocai Friulano, until the EU dictated that the only wine allowed to use the name Tocai was the Hungarian dessert wine. You will see this wine referred to as Friulano, Tai, or still occasionally Tocai throughout this region, and in neighboring Friuli. The Tai is pale yellow in color, with a subtle floral nose. Very crisp and tart, with a full, elegant flavor. Another great aperitif wine, which would pair splendidly with cured meats in an antipasti.
Next, their DOC Pinot Grigio. A very classy wine from 100% Pinot Gris. A nose redolent of fruit. A well-structured, crisp and clean palate. This would accompany nicely risottos, poultry dishes, and fish soups.
Finally, my last white was their Verduzzo Frizzante IGT, another sparkling white produced using the Charmat method. Made from 100% Verduzzo, the second fermentation is brief, resulting in a very fresh, youthful wine with a subtle sparkle. Gold yellow in color, with a fruity nose exhibiting just a hint of almond. A bit sweet, with flavors of stone fruit and pears. This would pair nicely with strong, creamy cheeses, or just enjoy on it’s own.
On to the reds!
Ornella Molon Refosco
My first taste was the Ornella Molon Refosco IGT. Grown in their vineyards along the Piave River, south east of Treviso, this wine is 100% Refosco. An indigenous varietal wine, with intense fragrance of dark fruit. A full-bodied wine, with medium tannins, a nice acidity and a persistent finish. This would pair well with the local cured meats, as well as roasts.
Next I tasted their Cabernet, which is a blend of 70% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The heavy use of Cabernet Franc produces a robust wine, with an intense ruby-red color, with aromas of green peppers and black fruits like raspberries and currants. Flavors of red berries and plum, with a nicely tannic finish; this wine has more tannin, but a bit less acidity that the Refosco.
Ornella Molon Raboso Frizzante
The signature varietal of the Piave region is the Raboso grape. Raboso is an ancient wine, grown in the Piave River valley of the Veneto region before the time of the Roman Empire. Pliny the Elder writes in his Naturalis Historia, of the grape Picina omnium nigerrima, a black wine and the ancestor not only of Raboso, but of Terrano, Refosco and Friularo. Antonio Carpene, one of the founders of the School of Enology in Conegliano, claimed that the red Raboso nero was perhaps the most important variety of eastern Veneto, especially as it was so widespread at that time. Even after the Second World War, Raboso was still the dominant wine in this region, accounting for approximately 80% of the production. After some movement toward replacing the indigenous varietals with the more popular international grapes such as merlot and cabernet, there has been a resurgence in interest amongst the local wine makers to rediscover the traditional grapes of the region, and we are starting to see some wonderful, high quality wines from the Raboso grapes.
This grape is quite versatile, and Ornelle Molon produces both a Frizzante version, as well as a still Raboso DOC. The 2010 frizzante was a fun, refreshing wine. Produced using the Charmet method, it is a wine meant to be drunk young, with flavors of cherry and red currant. It is a perfect aperitif wine to accompany an antipasti with the local cheeses and cured meats, or pizza.
Ornella Molon Raboso DOC
The 2006 Raboso DOC Piave is the most serious wine of the bunch, made from 100% Raboso grapes from Molon vineyards in Campodipietra, just 20 km away from the Adriatic. In order to earn the Piave DOC designation, the wine must be aged for at least three years in oak casks. This wine benefits from a longer aging process, as it’s acidity and tannins take a while to mellow. The name Raboso is sometimes rumored to come from the Italian word “rabbioso”, which means angry or rabid. (It more likely derives from the Raboso River in Treviso, but it does help to describe the character of the wine.) Deep red, with scents of spice and berries, it is a very robust, full-bodied wine, austere even, becoming more mellow with age. A great foil to a braised meat or other rich, fatty dishes as the strong acidity will cleanse the palate.
They also have a L’Osteria right there at the cantina – it was closed during my visit, but definitely on my list to check out the next times I am through!
